Tuesday, November 30, 2010

No Mo NaBloPoMo

Finally, it's the end of November!

Sort of like where did November go? And, yea, it's the end of National Blog Posting Month.

The next big event is the International fondue party on December 22nd. Get it, Twelve Two Two Fondue. Never mind, just be there, OK?

Monday, November 29, 2010

Biscuits Better

I had a leftover to deal with. Turkey and stuff in a soup. Well, leftovers and leftovers. What to do? So, I thickened it with a roux of flour and butter, then whipped up a batch of biscuits and baked the whole thing.

The result? Sort of a turkey pot pie topped with biscuit.

The reviews? Rave!

I'll put this in my book.

Sunday, November 28, 2010


I was thinking to myself, "This is stupid. You're going to hurt yourself."

Right before the Kitchen Devil serrated bread knife sliced over the top of my knuckle.

Ohhh, that's gonna sting, was my next thought.

Kitchen Devil 1, knuckle skin 0

Saturday, November 27, 2010

My Dinner with Molly

I'm not a cyberstalker but I play one on TV.

That makes no sense to anyone born after 1970, I'm sure.

That said, I have a lot of virtual friends, people I've "met" over the Internet and with whom I've had many electronic exchanges, some very lengthy, but who I have never met in person. I don't remember the first person I met through the Internet but I remember the first most famous: Dr. Jill Tarter, director of SETI and the inspiration for the Ellie Arroway character in Contact by Carl Sagan and the movie by the same name, Jill being played by Jodie Foster. Well, one degree of freedom from Carl is pretty good right out of the chute! I wrote to Jill after reading an article in Science that provided her email address. It was a whim, and I was astounded when I got a reply. A very nice and thoughtful reply. We had a few exchanges and that was that.

My first Internet Fling!

Inspired by this success I boldly went where no electronic pen-pal had gone before and contacted, when possible, people who piqued my interest. Imagine my astonishment when the Poet Laureate wrote me a personal poem. And so it went.

Now, back to today's subject which is Molly. Molly is Molly Wizenberg who writes the Cooking Life column in BonAppetit magazine. I met Molly through her website, Orangette, and in time got willingly conscripted to help her test recipes for her upcoming book. My task was to follow her recipes exactly and not improvise. Out of character I assure you! But, I did it and what I learned was that Molly's recipes worked! I didn't need to improvise.

Which brings us to tonight. I'm doing Molly's Lentil Soup. Smells good and I'm looking forward to snarfing down the whole thing. I'll provide the recipe later but right now the timer went off and it's dinnertime!

Friday, November 26, 2010

New Nouveau

The new Nouveau Beaujolais is out and it goes down smooth.

Thursday, November 25, 2010

First Thanksgiving

It was grand.

Rather, it was unexpectedly grand.

Eons ago, before the Internet, when we still got information from papyrus and clay tablets my friends in England where I was living at the time asked me if I could cook them a traditional American Thanksgiving dinner. Well, after eight pints of beer anything is possible so I agreed, "Sure! No problem! We'll have a feast to remember!"

Several days later I was reminded of my boast to roast and I was hoist by my own inebriated petard.

But, fearless is as fearless does and I set out to buy the stuff of stuffing and other stuff. I got a turkey, potatoes and plenty of wine and beer. If this didn't work out I hoped at least to create a Fog of Success.

I had no kitchen at this time, you see, and I would be cooking at a friend's flat. When they asked if Mark 4 would be a proper temperature to cook a turkey I said "yes" with more assurance than I felt. The only thing I remembered, dimly, about cooking was a Rule of Thumb: 20 minutes a pound plus 20 minutes. In short, although that's pretty short, it means: cook until done.

Well, to make a long afternoon short I produced my very first Thanksgiving Dinner in an unknown kitchen for a bunch of graduate students and friends. We had the turkey which we cleaned to the bones, mashed potatoes (my first attempt), candied yams (lots of guessing but no complaints), local vegetables cooked by my host and sous chef, all preceded and followed by copious amounts of liquid depressants.

Thanksgiving. Seriously, what can go wrong? Friends, family, food and drink. It doesn't matter if the turkey would be approved by Betty Crocker and the decorations certified by Martha Stewart. What is important is the day, being thankful that one has friends and food and drink, and to take pause from the Rat Race at least for a few hours to reflect on what is really important in life.

Happy Thanksgiving to All.

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Ready to Launch, er, Lunch

T'was the night before Thanksgiving and all through the house
Not a creature was stirring except me and Kink in the kitchen cooking the midnight stuffing.

Here's the blueprint:

1 nosey cat
ground sausage (sage and hot)
Spanish onion
chopped celery
rubbed sage
chicken stock
some chopped baguette
this and that
don't forget the chopped pecans
don't add anything weird like squid or "parts"

Cook, mix, pack lightly into a baking dish and cook at 350 for an hour or so, or less. Cool, refrigerate until the next day and use to stuff the turkey and serve as one of a million side dishes. Don't make enough for leftovers to prevent fights.

Kink and I are sitting here, smelling the stuffing cooking and already it's looking to be a wonderful Thanksgiving Day. Thyme will tell.

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

They Gather for the Feast

Thanksgiving is upon us again. My favorite time of the year. Cool, crispness in the air. Autumn leaves. Chance of snow.

Or, as we say here in Houston, warm moist Gulf air, high humidity, hello Mr. Muggy and a certainty of condensation.

Preparations have started already. Lists are being made. Recipes discussed. Should we do something new? How about a tofu turkey? Uh, that gets voted down every year and I think it only gets discussed so it can get voted down.

The gathering this year will be much like previous years: giant turkey, trimmings to feed an army and enough wine to float a navy.

And, I'm sure after three or four rounds of my Famous Bean Dip appetizer someone will be in command of the air force.

Just saying.

Monday, November 22, 2010


You can dream it ...

... or you can have it.

Sunday, November 21, 2010


"It's worth the drive," we were told.

"The road's a little narrow. Try not to end up in a ditch."

"It's a beautiful drive, if you get back OK, of course."

"I don't remember if your go right or left at the fork. If you take the wrong way you can't turn around."

And so began our journey to Dunning Vineyards near Paso Robles, California. I felt good about the trip because I had a rented car. Can't turn around, no problem, just leave the car and walk home.

Lions and tigers and bears! Oh, my!

It was a nice drive and a combination of good directions and small, handmade signs got us to the property. Up the hill to the left was a rambling, Central Coast farmhouse and ahead of us up the hill were rows of grapevines. To the right was a huge barn with a small sign on the door that said "Enter."


We went in and were surrounded by rows and rows of giant barrels. The place smelled like wine and oak and sawdust and maybe just a hint of nutmeg.

In short order we met the owner and vintner who set us up with a row or four of glasses to sample the wares. Later that evening I was told that the sampling went great, the wine was great and we ordered a great quantity to be shipped to us in November.

To be honest, I had mostly forgotten we ordered the stuff when the doorbell rang and a straining UPS guy plonked down a box of plonk; "Sign here."

Tonight we uncorked the dream that is Dunning.

Dunning Vineyards

Take Highway 46 West from Highway 101 just over three miles to Oakdale Road. Head right onto Oakdale and drive one-half mile.Turn right onto Las Tablas Willow Creek Road and drive about 1.2 miles. Bear right onto Niderer Road and continue about one mile. Turn left up the path to the winery.

Saturday, November 20, 2010

Friday, November 19, 2010

Words of Wisdom

I have a good friend, well, more a cousin many times removed, whom I've never met who does something with food in New Orleans. Check down below during the Great Tasso Experiment and you'll find a link to his blog. Anyway, although we've never met it's clear we fell from the same tree.

Danno writes:

I never follow a recipe, but you can always find nine, or so, cookbooks open on my table when I’m cooking it. I always search for a new technique, they almost always turn out good, but once in awhile, there is magic in the pot.

Exactly right. That's how I cook. Every meal is an experiment, done from scratch and following my instinct. Mostly usually all in all and, eh, give or take a few, my meals are rated by much gnashing of teeth and yum-yum sounds. Occasionally I produce a monster like the Not So Great Tasso Curry.

No pain, no gain. Judging from my weight I've had a lot of pain!*

Just today I was looking up recipes for corn bread. Corn bread, you say, who needs a recipe for corn bread? Well, nobody does, you just add a bit of this and a bit of that, squint at it and it's corn bread. Every once in a while, though, somebody will come up with a new trick that's worth trying if for no other reason than to hear your family complain about the nasty corn bread. Makes them appreciate the every day stuff all the more. I must say, the anchovy corn bread was not something to repeat.

Take boiled water, for example. Who would look up recipes for boiled water? I do! Turns out that if you add water to a pot a teaspoon at a time and stir vigorously, your boiled water will come out lighter and fluffier. I tried it and it's true!

So, get out there and check out those recipes. No telling how it will improve your every day fare!

*French for "bread," get it? Never mind.

Thursday, November 18, 2010

Tasso Curry. Just Say No.

I had a brainstorm while working on a curry dinner. What if I boiled up some lentils and added my freshly smoked Tasso. I wonder what that would be like? Also, I could add some red curry paste. That should zing it up a notch.

OK, don't try this at home.

Seriously. Smoked ham curry is not a good thing. Yeah, you can eat it if you try and if you're very, very hungry. Take my word for it, curry spices and smoked ham are like peanut butter and chocolate. No, that's wrong. More like peanut butter on a filet mignon.

Just don't do it.


Pinky swear.

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

Tasso Done. Now What?

Here it is, the final product. Seasoned smoked pork loin.

Parts of it look ham-like, but nothing like the infamous Ham Ribs, nor is nearly as salty since I didn't soak it in brine overnight. However, I thought it would come out a bit more pink.

Alas. Tasso version 1.0

Now comes the big question. What to do with it. For now I'll break it into smaller pieces, bag it and freeze it.

Tuesday, November 16, 2010


OMG! There be Beatles!

Get ye to the iTunes store and revel in the madness!

Monday, November 15, 2010

Alert Kink

I'm watching you!

Sunday, November 14, 2010

Henryk Górecki

Polish composer Henryk Górecki died on November 12th leaving behind a small body of work and one very remarkable piece, the Symphony Number 3, Symphony of Sorrowful Songs. Although this piece was composed in 1976, it gained prominence and worldwide fame in a 1992 London recording by conductor David Zinman featuring soprano Dawn Upshaw.

I remember hearing a report on NPR while driving to work about this piece and they played a bit of it. It might have been the second movement; I don't remember and I haven't been able to find the original audio report. However, this much I do know. For the first time ever I pulled over, stopped the car and listened to the rest of the report. I fished around for a scrap of paper to write down then name of this composer and I only got part of it right: Goriki. Polish. Symphony.

I put the scrap of paper in my wallet and carried it around for a year, stopping in every music store I visited looking for this recording. I looked locally and when I travelled I checked out music stores but to no avail. This is before Google and Amazon, remember! (How did we survive?)

Anyway, over a year later I was in Phoenix and while browsing a large music store there I found it. Under the letter G in the classical section. Symphony No. 3. I bought it.

Although the first few times I played the piece I really enjoyed it, my epiphany didn't come until one fateful evening, home alone, I decided to follow along with the program notes and read the lyrics in English because the symphony was sung in Polish.

My life was changed. Forever.

Once I read the lyrics and understood the Sorrowful Songs I understood. I felt the pain, the anguish, the despair, the hopelessness and the hope, the healing and the optimism. All at once. Unfortunately, or maybe it's a gift, I can no longer just enjoy the music for music's sake. I know what it means and it affects me profoundly.

The songs are about loss, fear, anxiety, all the horrors of war and love. Ultimately love. Love for lost ones. Love for hope. Love for loved ones.

"And you, God's little flowers
May you blossom all around
So that my son
May sleep happily."

In talking with people who have listened to and understood this symphony there are different "tipping points." Points during the piece where one's emotions rise to the surface like a pot of boiling pasta ready to overflow, an emotional release that can't be stopped. For me it's around the 6-minute mark during the second movement. This movement consists of a series of building ascending tones that reach a wail of sorrow (to me) at this point. Even though I know it's coming, or perhaps because I know it's coming, I can't resist my own emotional release.

I find the middle of the first movement an introduction, or a warning, of what's to come.

Oddly, I really like the Symphony of Sorrowful songs, but only play it when I feel a need for catharsis. I don't listen to it for joy but feel some joy at the end. I guess it's like a rite. I'm going to play it tonight, strap on the Bose QC-15's step off the cliff. I know where I'm going; I've been there before. I owe it to Henryk and the people he wrote about.

Here's a sample. The second movement. Watch out for the 6-minute mark.

First Movement

My son, my chosen and beloved
Share your wounds with your mother
And because, dear son, I have always carried you in my heart,
And always served you faithfully
Speak to your mother, to make her happy,
Although you are already leaving me, my cherished hope.

(Lamentation of the Holy Cross Monastery from the "Lysagóra Songs" collection. Second half of the 15th century)

Second Movement

No, Mother, do not weep,
Most chaste Queen of Heaven
Support me always.
"Zdrowas Mario." (*)

(Prayer inscribed on wall 3 of cell no. 3 in the basement of "Palace," the Gestapo's headquarters in Zadopane; beneath is the signature of Helena Wanda Blazusiakówna, and the words "18 years old, imprisoned since 26 September 1944.")
(*) "Zdrowas Mario" (Ave Maria)—the opening of the Polish prayer to the Holy Mother

Third Movement

Where has he gone
My dearest son?
Perhaps during the uprising
The cruel enemy killed him

Ah, you bad people
In the name of God, the most Holy,
Tell me, why did you kill
My son?

Never again
Will I have his support
Even if I cry
My old eyes out

Were my bitter tears
to create another River Oder
They would not restore to life
My son

He lies in his grave
and I know not where
Though I keep asking people

Perhaps the poor child
Lies in a rough ditch
and instead he could have been
lying in his warm bed

Oh, sing for him
God's little song-birds
Since his mother
Cannot find him

And you, God's little flowers
May you blossom all around
So that my son
May sleep happily

(Folk song in the dialect of the Opole region)

Postscript - I'm sitting here and the second movement has started. I'm in the grip already. Ah, the purge has begun.

Saturday, November 13, 2010

Four Seasons Rating

Dear Four Seasons Fancy-Dancy Hotel in Austin,

Thank you for a lovely stay in your nicely groomed, well kept hotel this weekend. You get 10 Points for the attentive, quick and polite valet parking attendants who took care of our car swiftly and efficiently. You get another 10 Points for a painless check-in. Also, we award you 5 Points for a nice view of downtown Austin, including the Hampton Inn Downtown right across the street. More about that later.

Furthermore, you get 15 Points for the invisible housekeeping service which swept away litter, turned down our bed and provided fresh towels every hour whether we needed them or not, and 5 Points for the thousand thread, imported cotton, personalized bathrobe that encouraged me to take two more showers than I planned. I was going to award only 2 Points for the cantaloupe shampoo but will up that to a full 5 points just for the entertainment value of hearing people exclaim as I passed, "Wow, do you smell cantaloupe?"

Ten points for being on the rickshaw route to the Drunken Mile, aka Sixth Street, although we decided to walk. Still, it was nice to know that we could take our lives in our hands on the way back if we so chose.

All in all, a very impressive score. Nearly a perfect score. Nearly.

HOWEVER, I am compelled, compelled I say, to penalize you for the High Crime of charging me Eleven Bucks ($11) for High-ish Speed (?) Internet access a grand total of Eleventy Million Billion Gazillion Points, which puts you sort of in last place on Planet Earth. How can you charge the prices you do, supply your customers the high quality products you do, pamper and serve them with great professionalism and care, then INSULT them here in the 21st Century by charging them for Internet access? Why not charge for water? I'm sure yours is the best! Why not charge them for electricity? I'm sure your electrons are Class A! Why not charge them a quarter for using the elevator?

I. Just. Don't. Get. It.

Finally, I award the Hampton Inn Downtown Austin Eleventy Million Billion Gazillion Points even though we didn't stay there. (But next time will.)

So, there.

Friday, November 12, 2010

Tasso Phase I

Nola Cuisine Tasso Recipe

I've had an interest in making Tasso ever since I read about it on the most excellent food blog, Nola Cuisine. However, I didn't have a smoker so all my Tasso dreams went up in smoke (which I didn't have.)

That's all changed with the arrival of my most recent obsession, the Cookshack Smoker. I've been looking for things to smoke! (er, don't quote me on that, kthx.)

I've already done fish, ribs and a chicken, just for practice, you see, and now I'm ready to get serious. To be totally honest I don't even know what Tasso is, but if Danno says it's good then that's enough Kool-Aid for me Fortunately, Chef Google knows all about Tasso and would tell you that it's lean strips of pork, highly seasoned, smoked and it's used in small quantities to flavor beans (think red beans and rice), soups, gumbos and anything else that would benefit from spicy porky goodness, like a bowl of Cheerios. That's enough for me, fire up the smoker!

Not so fast. Making tasso is del-i-cate or you'll ruin the spell, as the Wicked Witch of the West said. It takes three days to let the rub sink in, then a few hours of air drying and about 4 hours of smoking.

"Tastes like chicken" is something I'm not looking forward to hearing after all this! Not likely, either, considering my ninja Ham Ribs-fu. It's gonna be ham-licious.

Full report in a few days.

Thursday, November 11, 2010

OMG, Roy's!!!!


Roy's Hawaiian Fusion restaurant in Austin has CLOSED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I need more exclamation points!!!!!!!!!

Oh, this is a tragedy! Where will I get lobster sauce pot stickers? Where will I get volcano chocolate soufflé? Where will I get such S A T I F A C T I O N ? ? ?

I am so sad. What has the world come to?


Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Smart Technology

You know when you drop your Blackberry in the pool it doesn't work any more? The Blackberry, that is, not the pool.

Wouldn't it be cool if the phone could figure out it was being drowned and turn into a fish until you pull it out?

I'd totally buy a FishPhon.


Tuesday, November 09, 2010

Carl Sagan 1934-1996

From this distant vantage point, the Earth might not seem of particular interest. But for us, it's different. Look again at that dot. That's here, that's home, that's us. On it everyone you love, everyone you know, everyone you ever heard of, every human being who ever was, lived out their lives. The aggregate of our joy and suffering, thousands of confident religions, ideologies, and economic doctrines, every hunter and forager, every hero and coward, every creator and destroyer of civilization, every king and peasant, every young couple in love, every mother and father, hopeful child, inventor and explorer, every teacher of morals, every corrupt politician, every "superstar," every "supreme leader," every saint and sinner in the history of our species lived there – on a mote of dust suspended in a sunbeam.

The Earth is a very small stage in a vast cosmic arena. Think of the rivers of blood spilled by all those generals and emperors so that, in glory and triumph, they could become the momentary masters of a fraction of a dot. Think of the endless cruelties visited by the inhabitants of one corner of this pixel on the scarcely distinguishable inhabitants of some other corner, how frequent their misunderstandings, how eager they are to kill one another, how fervent their hatreds.

Our posturings, our imagined self-importance, the delusion that we have some privileged position in the Universe, are challenged by this point of pale light. Our planet is a lonely speck in the great enveloping cosmic dark. In our obscurity, in all this vastness, there is no hint that help will come from elsewhere to save us from ourselves.

The Earth is the only world known so far to harbor life. There is nowhere else, at least in the near future, to which our species could migrate. Visit, yes. Settle, not yet. Like it or not, for the moment the Earth is where we make our stand.

It has been said that astronomy is a humbling and character-building experience. There is perhaps no better demonstration of the folly of human conceits than this distant image of our tiny world. To me, it underscores our responsibility to deal more kindly with one another, and to preserve and cherish the pale blue dot, the only home we've ever known.

- The Pale Blue Dot by Carl Sagan

Pizza Strike

This week I was home alone and my schedule got me home late and I was just too shattered to think about cooking a meal even a boiled egg.

What to do, what to do?

Then I remembered all those "spam" emails I had been receiving and decided to call in a pizza strike from Papa Johns. It was too simple. I logged on to the website, selected my pizza preferences, paid for it right there on-line and the thing was delivered about 30 minutes later!

You can get food from the Internet! Al Gore never told me that. Nothing short of magic.

Am I the last to know about this?

Yum, anchovies!

Monday, November 08, 2010

Uneasy Truce

Kink the cat at 12 pounds.

Tripp the dog at 80 pounds.

It's an uneasy truce, big dog versus sharp cat.

So far the match has been Sharp Cat 1, Big Dog 0.

Sunday, November 07, 2010

Ham Ribs Part 2

"Ham ribs is a term we never want to hear again."

Yes, Dear.

I dunno, I like salt. I thought EVERYBODY liked salt! Hey, pass the salt. I've heard that forever and even said it myself a few million times. Salt of the Earth. Old salt. Salty language, even. It's everywhere, why not in pork ribs?

"What am I ever to do with these ham ribs?"

I had a suggestion, but thought better of it. For once.

"Shove them in the ... fridge ... for now and I'll figure something out."

It turns out the solution was right under our noses. A wonderful breakfast treat, ham hash with jalapenos topped with a sunny side up egg. With toast.

Here's the blueprint:

2-3 ham ribs, deboned
1 potato
1 onion
1 jalapeno

Chop it all up and sauté it in butter or oil until the potatoes are cooked. Add pepper to taste, but NO SALT! Cook up an egg and serve the hash with the egg on top. Fork it all down as fast as you can.

It was so good I'm thinking about making ham ribs again.\

What's that, dear, over whose dead body?

Saturday, November 06, 2010

Ham Ribs

"Why do you experiment with our food? Even Dr. Frankenstein didn't do that!"

I hear this a lot around my house. I've been working to find the Perfect Rib Smoking recipe, but today was not my day. A dog visiting us thought they were great! Lucky dog.

The change in the Rib Routine was to do a pre-soak in a brine solution made from 1 cup of Morton's Tender Quick and 4 cups of water. This was successful with salmon and I found a few recipes on-line. What could go wrong?

Well, the brine soak "cured" the meat somewhat, but I was quite surprised to see how much "somewhat" that was when I cut into the finished product.

"Wow, that's really pink."

"Looks like ham."

"Tastes like ham!"

"Salty like ham. Pass the water or a few gallons."

Later that evening ...

"Whatcha looking up."

"Ham recipes. I figure if you can't beat 'em, join 'em."

Friday, November 05, 2010

Penny for the Guy!

Happy Guy Fawkes Day!

Except for Guy, of course, who would rather forget about the whole thing.

Thursday, November 04, 2010

Rushin' Chili

Not Soviet style, just done in a hurry.

I threw some stuff together to make a chili for a blustery, cool-ish day here in Houston and it was Out-Stand-Ing! The chili, not the day.

Here's the blueprint:

2 lbs beef
2 onions, chopped
3 jalapenos
5 tomatillos
1 box chopped tomatoes
1 small can tomato paste
garlic powder
ancho chili powder
dried chopped onions
cumin powder

I fried up the chopped onions, then added the beef chopped into half-inch cubes, added the chopped jalapenos and tomatillos, tossed in some water, the chopped tomatoes and stirred it all up. Then I added the spices, adjusted the water and put it under pressure for 30 minutes or so.

Then I reduced the pressure, added the tomato paste, tasted it (OK!) and put it under pressure for another 30 minutes. Finally, I just let it sit for 20 minutes while I got other things organized.

Result: El Perfecto!

My rule of thumb is that all a chili needs is 2 hours of cooking. The rest is fate.

The Fates graced me tonight.

Wednesday, November 03, 2010

Attack of the Catalogs!

They're coming! Clogging your mailbox. Daily catalogs from LL Bean, Land's End, Williams Sonoma and Think Geek! Each day brings more catalogs, thicker catalogs, promoting stuff you can't live without. Fur-lined coffee makers, oak slippers, toothbrushes for your cat, John Boehner orange peelers.

What I need is a mailbox catalog so I can order a bigger one. I'll have to look into that.

Tuesday, November 02, 2010


The Christmas decorations are up at the local Mall. They've been up for a week. I had to fight my way through Christmas decorations at my grocery store just to get to the Halloween candy.

Let's see, should I hand out Butterfingers this year or candy canes? I had a choice.

Poor old Thanksgiving! Not even a shelf to itself. Nope, just a little stand at the end of an aisle with cans of pumpkin pie filling, Karo Syrup and cranberry sauce. Thanksgiving which is the dinner dry run for Christmas has been caught in the squeeze.


I think we ought to simply give up on the holiday competition and combine the whole mess into one Mas. I'd call it HallowThanksMas, a national holiday season lasting from October 30th until January 8th. Why Jan 8? Well, that's a common last day for returning gifts to retail merchants.

It's all a blur anyway, why not make it official.

Yep, if I ruled the World ...

Monday, November 01, 2010

Happy Birthday, Kink!

Kink the Cat turned four years old last month. He finally grew into his ears ...

... and out of the basket!